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Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Language and the Grand Return


I’m back in the US now. I arrived back December 14th, to a startling lack of snow. I never really had culture shock coming to Argentina, and I haven’t had it returning. For a while I was startled by the realization that when I speak on a bus in English, anyone –everyone- can understand me. I had to start paying some attention to what I said. While on the farm, only Stephanie and I spoke English; we never had to adjust conversations for young ears, we just had to not switch into Spanish. It was almost equally startling to realize how easily I could understand strangers. Though I now speak Spanish fairly well, I always had the assumption, that when a stranger began to talk to me, I’d have to put in some effort to understand.
            As for language itself, I’ve had to check myself from putting también at the ends of sentences. That’s the only word that slips through. Whenever I want to say, “this was cool, too” or “I’ll need this, also, I keep wanting to use “también.”
There are also a few phrases that Argentina just does better, linguistically. Sure, it’s my opinion, but 3 other English-Spanish abroad students agree with me (as did an ex-Argentinean who moved to Canada). One is the phrase “tener ganas”. It’s a way of saying you want to do something, you have a desire, a hankering to do it. Even when thinking in English, it’d often slip into my thoughts: “I don't really have ganas to rock climb today”. The other phrase is “no vale la pena”, “it’s not worth the pain.” The phrase just sounds more right, more meaningful than the English equivalent of “It’s not worth it”, or, “it’s not worth the effort”. The Spanish phrase offers a clearer vision and prediction of the situation.
-       Why won’t you date her?
-        I’m leaving in 2 weeks, it’s not worth the pain.
In this example the phrase suggests that whatever good came from the relationship, it wouldn’t outweigh the pain of breaking up, or that the wonderfulness of the relationship would make the pain of breaking up even worse. “It’s not worth the pain” seems to me to explain the why, while “it’s not worth it” seems callous and leaves you asking, but why isn’t it?

More on language
My creative writing teacher admired a few English words. Notably “hyphen” (“guíon”) and “moon” (“luna”). Moon, he thought, was perfect, because the roundness of the letters and the sound mimics the roundness of a full moon. Luna, I find, evokes the shape of a crescent moon, although I may simply be associating the two because of the crescent shaped food called medialunas. “Butterfly”, my teacher thought, was horrible. Milk fat and an insect do not draw up as pretty an image as the Spanish “mariposa”. 

Mendoza: Bicycle Tour



 The land of bikes and wine is a nearby town called Maipú. (Having lived in Buenos Aires, I started to realize that Argentina obsessively recycles street and town names. No, towns don’t have a main street. But they almost all have an Uruguay street, or a Maipú, or a Yrigoyen. Every province and town pulls its name from a very limited set of sources: Argentinean presidents, nearby countries, and Argentinean provinces. Occasionally I’ll be surprised by a John F. Kennedy street, but never something so useful as School Street, or even anything as descriptive as Fountain Road. Someone, somewhere, is just not trying).
Visiting places dedicated to getting you tipsy, or at least show you a good way to get tipsy later, and in between traveling around on a vehicle entirely dedicated to balance sounded charming. And it was. Fortunately, the travel time between wineries was long enough that I never got really affected, though some other tourists did. (For the most part, Stephanie and I biked around alone, though occasionally we met up with other tourists making the same popular trip. Being foreigners together makes people amazingly friendly).

The places to go
            1. Our first stop was Museo del Vino La Rural, a free museum that gave us a tour of the history of wine making, their own groves, and finished off with a glass of their home-made (well, museum-made) wine. This sweet red wine was one of my favorites from the trip. Both informative and experiential, with a lot to see, this museum was a good place to start of the trip. Especially because I didn’t drink wine often, and really didn’t know anything about it except that it somehow makes you classy.


History
Here’s what I’ve learned about wine (from Museo del Vino La Rural and Familia Di Tomaso tours). Wine – and grapes – came over to Argentina from Europe, notably with Jesuit missionaries in the 1560s. The Spanish brought the first wine, but the French brought the grapes used to make Malbec, Argentina’s most famous variety.
Originally, grapes would be picked by hand and collected in large leather sacks, which didn’t coddle the grapes very well, and let a lot get smushed, and the remaining grapes would be juiced by being stamped on. Later, around 1850, they upgraded to scissors to cut grapes off the vines, and hand-cranked machines to crush the grapes and extract the juice.
            It takes about 2 kilos of grapes to make one bottle of wine, although of course, the amount varies by the type of wine. Red wine uses both the skins and the juice, while white wine only uses the juice (hence the light color). Nowadays the left over skins are used as fertilizers or to make oils.

Is it good?
Wine quality varies based on how the ratio of skin and juice used, how much of the sugar’s been let turn into alcohol (you can rate on how sweet it is, how smooth it is, and on how fast it gets you drunk), and what kind of oak (if any) has been used to age it.

Growing
Roses are planted at the front of each row of grape plants to act as basically the canary in the mine. If the rose plant starts to die, chances are you’ve got a pest that will attack your grapes next. One grape plant, at least in regards to Malbec, is good for 50 years. After that, it loses its sugar content.

Aging
Argentina has no oak of its own, and imports from the US and France, and, to a lesser extent, China. Wine ages as it is allowed access to air, which is granted by the space between the barrel’s slats and by the pores in the cork. (This is why wine bottles are stored pointing down, so the wine stays in contact with the cork). Admittedly, the more it’s exposed to air, the sooner it turns to vinegar, but with barrels and corks, the affect here is negligent. If you deliberately don’t want wine to age, you can use a plastic cork. Don’t think you can dump your wine in your basement then pull it out decades later. Malbec wine only last 3-5 years before it becomes vinegar.
The oak also gives extra flavor and aroma to the wine, which really does a lot for the experience. To give a smokier flavor to the wine, wineries might toast the wood. French oak adds flavors of tobacco and coffee, while American offers vanilla and coco. (French oak is actually stronger and harder than American, another tidbit useful in distinguishing them). Some makers will mix the wood in their barrels, alternating slats of each tip of oak.
            Proto-wine, my term for the juice (and perhaps skin) mixture that hasn’t yet become a drink, needs to sit until 25% off its sugar becomes alcohol. It takes about 20 days for white proto-wine to mature to real wine status, and needs to be kept at 10 degrees Celsius. Red wine ferments in about 10-15 days, at 20 or 25 degrees Celsius (room temperature). The temperature of the wine rises during fermentation.

The process seems interesting, and if it didn’t take so long/cost so much (I wouldn’t bother if I didn’t have oak), I’d try my hand at wine-making.

2.             We next stopped at Entre Olivos, which had tastings of olive oils, jams, dulce de leche, and other spreads. Many of their spreads were fantastic, especially a coconut dulce de leche. The place also included liquor tasting in the price. Some of the flavors were nicely sweet and thick, but we were surprised to realize they went down a little rough. The best (smoothest) liquors we tasted in Mendoza were offered at just a random artisanal booth in a median in the city street.

3.  Our next stop was Familia di Tomaso, recommended to us by the bike rental place. This stop was particularly great because, in addition to a brief tour of the winery, which seems to have been in the family for generations, they sat us down and showed us how to taste wine. First, they brought out an un-aged Malbec. Smell it, then swirl it around and smell it again, our guide told us. Now you’ve released the alcohol scent. Our guide described the Malbec as a fruity red wine, with a light flavor of plums and other fruits. They followed it up with a Malbec aged 6 months, which simply had more to it. The scent was spicier and the flavor fuller, smoother, and more subdued, with darker undertones. In one of the other wines, he told us to notice the tannins. This compound, found in the grape skins, dries out the inside of your mouth. I did feel a dryness or a puckering inside my mouth, but that could easily just be due to drinking so much wine. We also tried a dessert wine, which most of the tourists loved; to me it tasted like the cough syrup I had as a kid.

4.  We stopped by a few others, but at some point, all wineries seem the same. They all offer tastings of the classic wines like Malbec, and a tour. We decided not to explore many of the wineries, as we’d already got a fair education in.
 We stopped at just one more winery (I think it was Trapiche). This one gave us 4 full glasses of wine to split. I jotted down notes as I tasted, because for me, I process the experience better and pay more attention if I’m trying to explain it. Merlot was a dark red wine, thicker than Mablec, with a richer, although bitter flavor. It was less fruity than Malbec as well. For comparison we tried a light purple wine called Syrah. The flavor was lighter as well, lighter than Malbec, and acidic and citrusy. None of the wines we’d had that day had been white, so we ordered Torrentes and Chardonnay. Torrentes we were obliged to try, because it’s unique to Argentina. I didn’t particularly like either of these; they just seemed to have less flavor than the reds (but Stephanie insists these were poor samples). The Torrentes was a light gold, and bitter. It had a weaker flavor than the Chardonay, which tasted slightly acidic and smelled slightly fruity.

5.  Our final stop was Historias and Sabores which did not have much in the way of historias, but held through on the sabores (flavors) promise. I was still curious in liquors so we stopped here to try a few and try their spreads. It was a picturesque little place, with a patio outside the small storefront, and a view into their garden and grape vines. Their most interesting item: a thick syrupy Malbec spread.


All in all, I feel like my Mendoza trip was a lot of trying food, and wandering outside. A nice relaxing break after farming, and a nice way to end my time in Argentina. The next night I spent on a bus back to Buenos Aires, then I hit the airport insanely, irrationally early, and returned to the USA on an overnight flight.


Travelers’ Tips:

Bicycle Tour
Mendoza is famous for its wine, and, in the tourism world, almost as famous for its biking-wine tours. There are a few ways you can go about this: you can pay your hostel to “organize” the trip, or you can go straight to the nearby town of Maipú and do it yourself. Back to useful information: at least with my hostel, what you get when you pay is a car to come pick up you (and anyone else paying for the same service) and drive you to Maipú, pick you up again the end time the service has chosen, and rent you your bicycle. It’s honestly just a waste of money. Your other option is to take a normal city bus  (number 173) to Maipú (costing about AR $2), and once there, rent the bike yourself from one of the numerous shops. It’s been a while since the trip, so my memory for prices may be off, but I believe the organized trip cost about AR$90 and the bike rental itself only AR $25.

I rented a bike from a place called Mr. Hugo, which is immediately across the street from the bus stop. The bikes were pretty good and the seats relatively easy to adjust by yourself. I saw helmets there, which I presume they’ll give if you ask; I honestly just forgot. Some bikes had a basket in the front, so if you didn’t bring a backpack and want to pick up souvenirs, that’s a good option.  They give you a glass of wine at the end of your trip, and a brief map of places at the beginning.

Most bodegas (wineries) cost AR $20 for tasting and a tour.

If you’re hungry for empanadas, stop by the Beer Garden off of Mitre street: they’re made fresh and in meat and vegetarian varieties. Be prepared to wait though. 

Mendoza Day 1: Wining, Dining, and Generally Touristing




Plazas, Sundays, Parks, and Snakes
After a few weeks on the farm, Stephanie and I made for Mendoza city, the province’s capital. It’s a remarkably liveable city: unlike the endless Buenos Aires, whose borderlines seem more the stuff of legend than of reality, Mendoza is easily walkable, and adds to that more open and green space, and notable tilework in the plazas. When we headed for the city there was only one thing on my to-do list: bicycle wine touring. Which meant we were at a bit of a loss for what to do with our other day and half there. (If we’d planned further ahead, we could have taken advantage of rafting, hiking, or adventure sports in the area). As it was, we turned out to be pretty lucky.
            Our first night in the town we found a rock concert to raise attention to AIDS and sexual health taking place in the main plaza. For dinner we sampled the wine Mendoza is famed for, and got perhaps the most stereotypical meal possible: steak cooked in wine. (Another dish on the menu sounded like Argentina’s response to the Atkin’s diet: pizza with a steak instead of a crust.)
            The plaza is a very active place, and, it being Argentina, home to some impressive crafts stands. On a later night, we stumbled across a live tango orchestra, celebrating the famous tango singer Carlos Gardel’s birthday with a show. Audience members of all sorts, some dressed elegantly, some wearing sandals and street clothes, paired up to dance.
            Our first full day in Mendoza was a Sunday, an unfortunate mistake. We wanted to visit some wine tasting places, but most shops shut down on Sundays. (Speaking of wine, for those of you who would rather eat your drinks than drink them, consider trying Malbec ice cream, a flavor that came in season in my last few days).  We flipped through my guidebook and decided to check out a huge park in the area. It’s quite pretty, with many nice places to walk, and dotted with playgrounds. If you’re looking for a picnic area, a way to occupy young kids, or just want to see some nice nature, it’s worth a stop.
            Now, what we were looking forward to next, was seeing an ancient aquarium. My guidebook described it as an “underwater freak show” of preserved oddities from the sea, and suggested that the aquarium was likely unchanged since its installation in 1945, save for the level of algae on the glass. With a description like this, I couldn’t resist. Reality, however, could. We had chosen to come the year that someone finally decided to renovate the aquarium and it was closed to the public. Across the street, however, was a little snake-etarium, hosting a variety of snakes, a few large spiders, and other reptiles. Much of the charm was in the posters, which disproved snake stereotypes I had never heard of (snakes do not, in fact, drink cow’s milk, for example) and underlined that the only way to deal with snake venom is to get treated with an antivenom (do not try to suck out the venom, don’t apply a tourniquet, don’t cauterize the bite, drink alcohol if you want but don’t expect it to help . . . ). A few interesting facts I gleaned are that snakes are deaf, and that to make an antivenom, a scientist injects a small amount of diluted venom into a horse, removes some of the horse’s blood, and separates out the antibodies.
       We also made a stop by the Modern Arts museum (Museo Municipal de Artes Moderno) , located in the plaza. It was tiny, about 1 room, with a few nice wood sculptures, some obvious photoshops, and a less-than-inspiring very abstract movie. Not worth your time.

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Traveler's Tips:

Guidebook
I have a Lonely Planet guidebook, which has been rather useful. The latest edition doesn’t include street numbers in its maps, and is usually off on price listings, but has handy details like phone numbers and street addresses. Everyone in my study abroad program owned Lonely Planet, which suggest its either good, or trendy.

Snake-etarium
There is some more exact and legit sounding name for this place, but I don’t remember. It’s worth an hour or so, and is cheap, only AR $7, if memory serves.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Farming Part 3

A Shit Day
One day we were assigned to clean out the pig pens, i.e. shovel shit. It was somewhat like cleaning out a diaper from the inside. For this sort of task you can’t help but swear constantly, and every swear rings oddly literal. At first, as we raked the pig droppings on top of the pen’s earth floor, it didn’t seem too hard a job. That was before we realize it was shit all the way down. Our first pen was packed, dry waste. Our second pen was only 1/3 a thin peninsula of earth; the surrounding sea was wet and stinking. It took us 6 hours, and what we moved was the build up of 1 month.  
            To be honest though, it wasn’t that bad. It was disgusting, and I was appalled by my own smell, but it was also funny. And neither as hot nor as tedious as weeding.

On Usefulness
One thing I really liked about working on the farm was that at the end of the day it was obvious I had done something tangible and worthwhile. It also meant that I didn’t feel oblidged to talk much at meals or be entertaining, because I felt  like I had already contributed. One reason there may be less depression in developing nations is that they feel useful even if they have bad jobs. Luis teased his son that if he didn’t pass his exams he’d have to be a train driver. That’s still a lot more valueable to society than the crap jobs I’m used to seeing like telmarketing, working at McDonald’s, or being a clothing store salesperson.

I was also a fan of not having to look nice. Being on the farm and camping, clothes only mattered for function; I felt like I’d done well if I just showered or brushed my hair.

Farm Summary
The sort of tasks I did were weeding, harvesting garlic, planting beans, harvesting lima beans and peas, shucking garlic, feeding animals, raking compost, distributing compost, shoveling out a pig pen, washing dishes, deepen irrigation channels.

The plants grown on this farm included: apples onions, two types of garlic, carrots, raspberries, lettuce, zaptillos (a type of Latin American pepper), cucumber, berries, artichocke,  quinece (a type of fruit resembling a large pear), chives, oregano, sunflowers, parsley, and corn. They raised pigs, rabbits, chickens, and sheep.


Farming Part 2: Pigs


Boisenberries
We started working once we arrived. Laura assigned us neating up the boisenberries. The  twisting branches of the plants were twined around weeds, and we had to straighten them out and tie them to a frame for easier harvesting. We spent that afternoon stabbed by the thorny branches and bitten bloody by flies. (Stephanie advised me to pull the thorns out with my teeth; I never got the hang of this, but trying to bite the thorn hepled because my teeth would depress the skin around the thorn, making it easier to then grasp).

Efficiency
What impressed me about the farm was it’s efficiency. We spent 6 or more hours a day weeding (so much that I have callouses), and all the weeds went to feed the pigs, rabbits, and sheep. The animal’s waste and leftovers from our meals went into compost.
Even our own waste was used. For a bathroom, we had a sort of dry outhouse. After using the toilet, you’d dump woodshavings/sawdust down the hole to trap odors; it was bascially a litter bin for humans.The hole of the toilet emptied into a large metal bin, which Stephanie and I had to empty on our last day. It was a two person task to pull the bin out from under the outhouse and carry it over to the compost pile to dump it. (For some reason human waste always seems grosser than animal waste, though its essentially the same thing).


Pig Food

It had surprised me that pigs could eat grasses, but apparenlty, pigs will eat anything, including each other. When we first arrived we saw one small pig penned off from his fellows. This one was a pig set aside to be killed. The farmers had cut off his gentials because it would sour the meat to kill him while they were still attached. He had to be kept separate for a while because if pigs smell blood on another pig, they will eat him alive.
The genitals and testicles are removed 7 months before killing the pig (they usually kill pigs in winter so the natural cold will help preserve the meat longer). The famer either cuts the genitals off with a knife or fastens an elastic around the genitals and keep it their until they fall off within a few days. Either method sounds intensely painful. (Trying to refer to the pig I accidentally called him “el chancho castigado”, which does not mean “the castrated pig”, but rather “the punished pig”. Laura loved this term).


Escaped Pigs
Sometimes pigs would be lefted in a pen in the fields to eat the weeds and roots there and thus clear the ground for planting. This was actually a dangerous idea, because sometimes the pigs would escape. On my eleventh day at the farm, a piglet got free in the field. Everyone in the field gave chase. I ran over in time to block one path of escape and the pig wheeled around, racing, terrified. Luis was furious and threw a hefty stick at it. He missed, grabbed his stick, and finally closing in on the piglet smacked it in the back until it’s legs gave out. Then Luis kicked it. The piglet tossed it’s mouth open and screamed. Luis grabbed it roughly by the ears,  hoisted it into the air, and carried it back to the pen, where he threw it on its back. For several minutes the piglet still couldn’t stand up. It was horrifying to watch.  
For some reason, loose pigs, unlike loose lambs, are a problem. I think the fear was that it would mess up rows of plants (presumably piglets step harder than lambs), and that it would not return (pigs aren’t exactly loyal to a herd).  Yes, the pig was a threat to their livelihood, but there are other methods of recovery. I’d seen Luis carry another pig back by the arms and legs, not the ears, and they catch large pigs with a collar on a rod that they hook over the pig’s head.

The relationship between a farmer and an animal is intensley disorted by the fact that the animals are meant to be eaten. Pigs are intelligent creatures, and I don’t doubt they could be trained like a dog could. Instead of trying to beat pigs into submission, it occurred to me that Luis could try to train them not to leave the pen. Then I realized that, given that the pigs will be eaten in some years anyway, it’s probably just not worth the effort. When a dog bites, humans try to understand what factors caused this (stress? illness? bad training?) and in some way negotiate with the dog, be it through a punishment-reward system or through removing the stressor. When a pig bites, they just kill it next.

Pigs are Awful
People have tried to tell me that English idioms slight pigs. No, English idioms are right on.  “Being a pig” is a perfect metaphor. Pigs who had just been fed and still had a pile of weeds next to them would try to eat their neighbors food if I placed it too close to the shared wall. Once a little pig even jumped through the gap in a wall to steal food from a bigger one, and pigs paired together to mate would fight for access to the food until one was beaten into submission. 

Farming Part 1



Before going to the station to catch our the bus to Mendoza , I dropped by the dormitories where my co-WWOOF-er to be, Stephanie, lived.  
            As one of Stephanie’s friends chatted with us about our trip, it soon became clear that we running optimisitcally and blindly to an unknown province. We did not know what sort of work we would be doing, what sort of farm it would be on (“there’s a lot to do” was the only description I knew), what the town was like or who the owners of the farm were.
            “The person I e-mailed with is a woman,” I offered.
            “At least that’s what she says.”
At this point the friend offered to loan us her knife. (We turned it down).

A bit of background:
WWOOFing is a program where anyone can volunteer to go work on an organic farm, for any amount of time from weeks to months. It cost $40 to join the WWOOF website, which then provided me with a collection of e-mails of farms who I could ask to let me work for them. This program runs throughout the world (a friend WWOOF-ed in Hawaii for a summer) and differs by farm. 


Sheep are Odd
When we arrived on the farm (after our taxi first accidentally brought us to another small organic farm), the first animal I saw was a sheep, leashed to a pole.
            “Is it female?” I asked, and they laughed at me.
Between it’s legs hung something pink and huge. I thought it was an udder, turns out it was balls. (In my defense, the balls are the size of two bannas hung together, curves pointing out, not very different in size from actual sheep udders). The male sheep, one owner of the farm told us, was kept separate from the females, and only allowed to have sex with them once a year.
Part of why I’d gone to a farm was because I wanted to fill in the gap between the packaged meat and the living animal it came from, and then decide how I felt about it morally. Trying to find some framework for judging how farm animals were treated, I kept asking about how sheep lived in the wild. There are no wild sheep, Luis, the other farm owner, insisted, they were a completely domesticated species, and had adapted to be so. For instance, sheep grow coats so thick they suffer from heat if no one shears them each summer.
            Still, something can be inferred about the animals that evolved into modern day sheep. For instance, according to the evolutionary psych books I was reading at the time (“The Moral Animal”), large balls imply a species in which femalse have sex with many males. Because they don’t monopolize any notable section of a female’s fertility time, the males instead try to overload her with semen, hoping theirs will beat out the sperm of the other males.
            A side note for those of you who think sheep make cute little “baa-ing” sounds. Most adult sheep sound as if they’re about to throw up. We had one cantakerous sheep who would stick out her tounge and bellow blehhhhh. (I would imitate the sheep all the time. This one and I got into shouting matches). Lambs, admittedly, are cute, if very very sad to watch. Every day two or three lambs would escape the sheep pen through gaps in the walls, and go frolic in the greater farm land. Then they would realize that they forgot how to get back in, and would cry. (Baby sheep make a high, mewling “mehhh”). Even when one lamb would find a way in (and there were many), his/her friends wouldn’t follow but instead would stand on the other side, bewildered. It is as if there is something fundamentally wrong with sheep language.  


Routine
The farm was owned by a husband and wife couple, Luis and Laura, who had previously worked as a kindergarten teacher, and I think, an electrician, before deciding they preferred farming. They had four children, ages 16-22, the eldest of which lived in the city while going to university. Our farm was a 40 minute walk from the town of Tunuyán, and bordered by other family farms (hence our taxi getting lost).

Stephanie and I slept in a tent we’d borrowed from her cousin (most of her family lives in Argentina) with a mat and blankets the family lent us. We soon settled into a comfortable, if not exactly thrilling, routine. Luis and Laura would wake us at 8am, and give us a breakfast of tea with bread and jam. We spent the mornings weeding, and feeding animals until 1pm or 1:30pm. Lunch was with the parents and their kids, then we’d take a siesta, because Mendoza province gets hot enough that you need to. Usually I’d read or nap until we returned to work at 5pm, and we’d keep working until it got dark, usually around 8:40pm.

A nice part was I really did feel accepted by the family. They’d joke and tease us constantly (me for my American-accented Spanish, and for getting smudged with dirt while working in the dirt) and on Thursdays after dinner we’d watch movie on TV with the family.
                                           Our part of the farm

Friday, November 25, 2011

Next Phase: Mendoza

Finals ended this week, thankfully, and last night was my program's goodbye ceremony. (Located at a surprisingly ritzy place, where two types of celebration fused: the dance party disco balls and music mixed with with an elegant dinner party scene with waiters politely carrying appetizers).

Now I'm off to volunteer for 18 days on a farm in the province of Mendoza, known for it's wine and, unfortunately, I'm learning, for being even hotter than Buenos Aires in November. It is sweltering here, with a high humidty, yet Starbucks has started putting little ice skaters on its advertisements. I'm volunteering as part of a WOOF program, where I'll work 6-7 hours a day and get free meals and shelter (I'm camping with a friend from the program). The town I"m going to apparently has very good apples, and I think that's about all I know. Wish me luck!

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Tourists like lists (or so I hope)


I think it's time to give a shot at writing something more touristy, so here goes: a set of list and tips for anyone vacationing in the city.

The Fairs, ranked

1.     Ferria de Los Inmigrantes – this is not a regular fair, but if you’re around in September, it makes a great lunch spot.  You won’t get the South American feel, because countries like India, Germany, Russia, and more are represented in the booths, but this fair is one of the few not aimed at tourists. Whereas San Telmo is teeming with souveneirs, the main things to buy here are food, and hats, clothes, and trinkets from other countries. What makes this fair stand out is the dancing. A stage is set up in front of a perfect picnic spot, with dancing and singing throughout the day. Smaller dances seem to break out randomly among costumed members of other booths.
2.     Ferria de los Matadores: There’s dancing at this fair, too, though it’s less diverse. The dance is a folklore style, accompanied by music, and I heard rumor that sometimes the fair has horse tricks, though I was disappointed to find they weren’t happening the day I went. It seems to be luck of the draw what you’ll get to see. While this fair is also touristy, full of leather belts, wooden flutes, chocolate, cheap bread, and alcohol, the prices are excellent (a bottle of wine for 13 pesos, for instance).
3.     San Telmo fair: This fair happens every Sunday and is notable for its sheer size. The fair consumes several city blocks in many directions, and you can walk for hours still seeing new things. It is a very touristy fair, and there’s a pressure to shop for souvenirs the whole time. Here and there in the fair will be musicians playing guitar or even on a metal bowl, and mimes for children. Some cool highlights were boxes made out of a single orange peel, the ubiquitous soft wool sweaters with llama designs, and some delicious homemade pastries from a woman pushing a cart.
4.     Tigre’s Fruit Fair: this fair on the river offers good fruit smoothies, and a large collection of items ranging from earrings to furniture in the nearby shops. None of it’s items are truly unique, but you can get cheap yerba in bulk, and lots of fruit.
5.     Ferria Recoleta at Plaza Francia: This is another weekly fair, and a nice place to peruse on the way to the cemetery or one of the nearby art museums. All the products are touristy, meaning a quick way to pick up souvenirs, but a bit pricier just for that reason. You’ll find things like mate gourds, leather belts, and shirts.
6.     Gay Pride Parade: This gets listed last because it’s a special, one-day event. From buttons to alfajores, everything’s rainbow, and you’ll see some “intriguing” costumes.

If you’re interested in shopping, there are always the malls her (called “Shoppings” by the Argentines), but they’re likely to be pricey. They’re much more elegant and elaborate places than those of the U.S., and if you decide just to go to check it out, it may feel like you’re walking in a hotel.

Best Museums
1.     Evita Museo: If you love culture, this is for you.
2.     MALBA: a Latin American arts museum with a huge and diverse collection, ranging from traditional to abstract and modern.
3.     Museo Bellas Artes
4.     Recoleta Centro Cultural
5.     Trelew: Egidio Feruglio Museo: a small museum, good for an hour or so, but with impressively complete dinosaur skeletons.
6.     San Antonio de Areco: Gaucho Museo: Ok
7.     San Antonio de Areco: Cultural Museo: Don’t even bother, though it costs about one dollar and no guards will stop you from touching all the exhibits.

Transport
1. In the Hand: Buy yourself a Guía T and figure out how to use it. The bus stops are confusing, as the book will only tell you what street to look on, not what intersection, but it’s the best hardcopy map I’ve been able to find.

2. On the computer: To get a closer idea of where bus stops are, look at the routes and the bus suggetions online at http://mapa.buenosaires.gov.ar/

3. On the streets: The train (subte) runs quickly and until 10:30pm. After that, you’ve got to find a bus, or give in and take a taxi. Only take Radio Taxis, because sometimes you can end up with a bogus taxi who will rip you off, or worse.

Food
1.     Lentil stew: it’s delicious; a thick stew, often with chunks of potato and beef.
2.     Mandioca: this root actually comes from Paraguay, but is popular here, no doubt for it’s complex texture. “Chipas” are a dense, bagel-shaped food made from mandioca flour.
3.     Alfajores: you’re obliged to try some, and they won’t be hard to find, whether you grab a packaged one from a kiosko or buy a fancier version at a bakery, and they vary a lot. The best I’ve had are AlfajOreos (this doesn’t really count: it’s more like a tall Oreo sandwich in a chocolate shell), maicena alfajores (soft cookies, thick dulce de leche filling, and rolled in shredded coconut), and a Vaquía brand alfajore well filled with a liquid Cappuccino filling.
4.     Empanadas: as with alfajores, you haven’t been to Argentina if you haven’t tried one of these. They come in a huge variety, the most common being stuffed with ground beef or ham and cheese. I recommend corn or caprese-filled ones.

Bars:
I’m afraid I haven’t been to many, so this list will be short, sweet, and under-informed.

1. Acabar: board games, restaurant, and bar. What else could you want? Try the “Spare Time” drink: it’s neon blue and sweet. What else could you want?
2. El Alamo: my favorite straight-up bar, because the people are friendly and mix easily. You can get about 2 liters of beer for ridiculously cheap (I’d guess $5), if you’re into that sort of thing.

3. Jobs: another board game bar, far more elaborate than the other. There’s pool tables, darts, and, if you go on the right days (Saturday, Tuesday, Thursday), even archery. If you arrive before midnight you can skip the 30 peso cover charge and get a free pizza.

4.Shamrock: An Irish pub that varies a lot by the day; can be so crowded it’s a fight to get drinks, or can be a good time.

5.Le Bar: I can’t say much for the drinks, because I didn’t order one, but the ambience is nice. The seating is sunk into the floors, the lights are low, and you can go on the roof. The time I went there was a band, too.


Wednesday, November 16, 2011

I Don’t Remember How . . . But the Terrorists Are Dead

This entry is immensely long, and it's also about one of the top two most interesting things I've experienced in Argentina.

In Full View
Twice a week Tribunal Oral en lo Criminal Nº1, a courthouse in La Plata, Buenos Aires closes off the street in front of it, and holds a trial on the rights abuses during the late 70s. This period in Argentina, from 1976-1983, is often called the “Dirty War”, except for by its victims, who claim it was not a war, because a war needs two armies. Instead they use the term “el Proceso” (“the Process”) to refer to 7 years of a government preying on any citizen who spoke against it. While it is important to remember that the citizens’ opposition was not pacifistic, they did not deserve what happened.
            The trial my class and I went to see was for information, not for a verdict. The defendant on the stand Miguel Osvaldo Etchecolatz, the Director of Investigations for the Police of Buenos Aires during the Proceso, had already been condemned to life in jail in 2006. The trial was purely to find information, about a particular occurrence during those years.
            Anyone with identification can enter a courtroom and watch a trial, and my school group was joined by art students and some middle aged observers. One woman with long white hair was a founding member of the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, a group that still demands justice for the children the government secretly kidnapped during the Proceso. The only rules the courthouse gave us were you must be over fourteen, because the themes were so heavy, and you could not bring in food or water, lest you throw them at someone. This implied the due bitterness surrounding the trials. The courthouse staff gave us official wristbands and let us enter.

  
Set the Stage
The courtroom itself appeared to be an old theater. The seats the public sat in looked just like those for a play-going audience, and a red curtain was pulled to the side above the stage where sat the judge, defendant, and lawyers. Despite its theatrical origins, it was a very plain building, devoid of any decorations. A somber place dedicated to a practical job: finding the truth.
            The judge sat facing the audience, along with two assistants. (It surprised me to see that one had dyed her hair magenta). On the right, rows of prosecuting lawyers with laptops and coffee cups, faced inwards, towards center stage. On the left, a cage jutted out into the audience, and here, protected by five guards in bulletproof jackets reading “SPF”, sat the defense. One guard had a riot shield, and they spent the time watching the audience and the case. Throughout the trial more guards with radios and black berets walked the floor.
            Etchecolatz rose, a normal looking older man with white hair and a gray suit, and sat at a desk, his back to the audience, facing the judge. This is what evil looks like, I told myself, knowing I was seeing a man who had presided over murder and torture, and yet I felt no repulsion. This was just a man.



Clara Anahí as photographed by her grandmother days before the attack. I borrowed it from: http://www.apdhlaplata.org.ar/espacio/n31/esp12.htm

Memory of Family
Etchecolatz had been called in from prison to give his account on the case of Casa 30. This house had been home to five Montoneros, anti-government rebels, and two of theirs baby girl. Most importantly, the house hosted a secret printing press the Montoneros used to distribute their political flyers. To cover it up, they raised and sold rabbits (as food, not pets). Because of this, the novel written about Casa 30 is called “Casa de Los Conejos”, or “House of Rabbits”.

Etchecolatz and the police attacked the house in 1976, killing everyone inside it, save, perhaps, for the three month old baby, Clara Anahí Mariani. Neighbors reported seeing the police take the baby from the house, and it was not an uncommon practice for police to kidnap children and raise them as their own. Estimates say 400 of these “disappeared” children are going about their lives today, completely unaware of their real identities. Clara Anahí’s grandmother is still looking for her; if she has survived this long, she turned 35 last August. But even if Clara Anahí was taken alive from the house, she could have been hit by a car at age 15 and died, or died of cancer at age 30; if alive she might not even still be in the country. It soon became clear that Etchecolatz’s objective in the trial was to say the daughter was dead, and thus that the search should stop, and that he was not complicit in anything blameworthy. 


Designing Justice
Trials in Latin America follow a different structure from the U.S.’s precedent-based system. The codified system in Latin America places more trust in written evidence and reviewing data, while the USA emphasizes oral evidence from witnesses. Watching this case, another difference became obvious: in Argentina, the judge, in addition to the lawyers, has a chance to examine the defense, and the defense can be brought in to be questioned again, if new evidence appears. For an hour or more, our judge questioned Etchecolatz           

Summary: Ray of Truth, Fog of Lies
The events of the day at Casa 30 began to become clear as the trial proceeded. The facts that Etchecolatz and other accounts agreed upon were that Etchecolatz had arrived at Casa 30 along with other military officers, that several officers entered the house, and that the five Montoneros were killed. During the attack on Casa 30, Etchecolatz was on the roof of the adjacent house, along with a man with a bazooka.

Etchecolatz handwaved over his involvement, trying to suggest that his entire participation in the conflict had been to merely exist on the roof, instead of having any job assigned to him, or having been involved with organizing the event. The police director also attempted to put a nationalistic, positive spin on the actions of the police in the Proceso, presenting them as a civilian, humanitarian group, and putting all blame for torture on the military. Part of Etchecolatz’s aim was also to insist that the Proceso had not been unilateral aggression: “[Los Montoneros] también tenía resistencia”  (“The Montoneros also had resistance”) he said, and claimed the guerrillas had killed 270 policemen.
There were a few notable flaws with Etchecolatz’s account. First, he, the director of police, had followed someone else’s orders to go to the house, and yet had not been assigned any role to do while there. He hadn’t been on the roof to catch people fleeing, he insisted, nor even really to observe.  Secondly, all the Montoneros were to be killed and their bodies burned, Etchecolatz reported, yet he claims neither saw bodies nor flames nor heard shots. In regards to the detention centers, in Etchecolatz’s world, the police were merely there to take care of the abducted people’s health and nutrition, the rest was the military’s job. Finally, despite physical evidence and numerous first hand accounts, Etchecolatz denied that torture was a common occurrence.  

In Defense of a Nation
When Perón ran for president in 1945, it was immediately after World War II and photos of the concentration camps were just leaking out to full public view. The U.S. ambassador, Braden, accused Perón of supporting Hitler and harboring Nazis. To explain to the class why this was such a harsh, campaign-damaging accusation, my history teacher clarified: it would be like saying you supported the ESMA, a major detention center used in the Proceso. Argentina is a place where those responsible for the Proceso draw a quicker gut reaction, a more immediate repulsion, than Nazis. In my human rights classes and history classes, no one could even question that the military committed horrors.
Just thirty years after the Proceso, and in a society where everyone knows the full extent of the abuses committed, I heard Etchecolatz continue to assert that his actions were fully justified. While I had been warned that most of the Proceso’s human rights criminals were unrepentant, it still felt unreal. Etchecolatz referred to those kidnapped by the government as “terroristas” (terrorists), and “prisioneros de la guerra” (prisoners of war”).
“Tenían que perseguirlo [y] matarlos como ratas” (“We had to chase them [and] kill them like rats”), he insisted; The Proceso was a campaign to protect country’s institutions, and allow Argentina to live in peace. 

Words for War
Among Etchecolatz’s description of the military government, stark nationalistic phrases continued to pop up.  He told how the military government had tried to “recuperar la verdad” (“to recover the truth”), “recuperar lo que ha perdido” (“to recover what had been lost”), “[asegurar] respecta para sus instituciones” (“to ensure respect for its institutions”), “[asegurar que Argentina puede] vivir en paz” (“to makes sure that Argentina could live in peace”), “sofocar una situación de ofensa” (“to suffocate an offensive situation”), and “afrentar el enemigo” (“to confront the enemy”).

Brainwashed Language
During the Proceso itself, the government enacted a huge propaganda campaign in which they repeatedly used nationalistic images to present their work as glorious and righteous and encourage belief in their side. If the police and guerrillas clashed, the newspaper was bound to report that the police had eliminated a subversive, or, if luck went the other way, that a policeman had been murdered by terrorists.
Euphemisms made torture seem less offensive: a “sumbarino” (submarine) is a tasty treat similar to hot chocolate, made by dropping a bar of chocolate in warm milk. When the government attached the name “submarino” to a form of torture, it became easier for soldiers to distance themselves from what they were actually doing: waterboarding a victim in water tainted with feces and urine.  In a 1984-esque attempt to cut down on subversive thought, the word “revolution” was banned, even including in reference to science.

Play by Play


It feels the most honest representation is to report the event as straightforwardly as possible, including giving the original Spanish, as that is the most accurate and true wording. I will translate as closely as I can.

What Did You Do?
It began with the judge questioning:
“¿Cuándo se producen muertes era porque hay sido resistencias?”
When killing occurred was it because there had been resistance?

I didn’t catch all of Etchecolatz‘s response. It was something like:
 “Somos ciudadanos .. . . no es así permitir abusos, no recibí ningún orden de torturas. . .”
We are citizens . . .it is not so that abuses were allowed, I didn’t receive any order to torture. . .

In a somewhat jumbled way, Etchecolatz went on to detail the event. The government forces attacked Casa 30 because it had a printer for “panfletos terroristas” (“terrorist pamphlets”) in the house. He believed that everyone in Casa 30 was killed, as the order had been to leave no one alive (“nadie quedar con vida”). Officers entered that house, the Montoneros inside resisted (at least he emphasized that he thought this was what happened), and, presumably, said Etchecolatz, the officers killed them all. Still, he reminded his listeners “no vi nada” (“I didn’t see anything”), and “no oí disparos” (“I didn’t hear shots”). Etchecolatz said that  “fueran carbonizados a todos en la casa” (“Everyone in the house was burned to ashes”), but when the judge asked he admitted that he had not seen fire or felt heat. Witnesses in other meetings on this case had also not seen fire. According to my human rights teacher, it was a common practice for the military/police to take away the bodies of their victims, so as to leave no tangible evidence. If Etchecolatz could suggest the bodies were burned, he would not have to explain what actually happened to them. But he could not blatantly contradict the testimonies of other witnesses.

The judge picked at the story:
“¿Por qué estabas allá si hiciste nada? ¿Cómo fue estar en el techo sin ver nada? ¿Por qué estabas en el techo? Los disparos de afuera . . .estabas allá parar matar a alguien que saliera de la casa?”

Why were you there if you didn’t do anything? How was it that you were on the roof and saw nothing? Why were you on the roof? The shots outside . . .where you there to kill anyone who left the house?

Etchecolatz:
 “Estaba allá por parte de posición en la policía”
I was there as part of my position in the police.
He continued, saying that he was only support and that no one gave him an order.

Judge:
“¿Dices que no hecho ningún tipo de exceso? ¿Nunca influido por exceso del gobierno de este época?”
You said that you never committed any type of excess? You were never influenced by the excesses of the government of this time?

Etchecolatz:
“Lo que cumplí estaba acuerdo del ley”
What I did was in agreement with the law.

Judge:
 “Si recibió un orden a matar, debió negar”
If one received an order to kill, one should refuse it.

Etchecolatz:
“¡Ningún orden matar!”
There wasn’t any order to kill!

Etchecolatz continued, saying that he had only received orders to go to the roof. 


Vanished Children

Judge:
“¿Hijos de personas desaparecidos eran recobrados?”
Were the children of the disappeared recovered?

Etchecolatz:
“No sé.”
I don’t know.


In regards to the child Clara Anahí, Etchecolatz merely mentioned that the people in the house “enseñaba a niña revistas subversivos” (“taught the girl subversive magazines”); this is no doubt a major reason the military would have taken her. El Argentino, a newspaper present at the trial that day, quoted Etchecolatz as saying “No puedo asegurar que la criatura estaba adentro, pero si estaba adentro, la criatura no pudo salir con vida” (“I can’t be sure that the child was inside, but if she was inside, the child could not have left with her life”). Despite this claim, it is known, thanks to a testimony in El Argentino, that the police had at one point attempted to sell Clara Anahí to her grandmother, something that strongly suggests the child was not killed at the house. Relatively recently, it was thought that the daughter of the owner of Clarín, an important newspaper, was in fact Clara Anahí. The daughters looked similar, were of the right age, and it was known that the newspaper owner’s daughter was adopted under strange circumstances. For much time the newspaper owner’s lawyers stalled and resisted requests for a DNA test, then suddenly agreed to it, presumably because they discovered through other evidence that the daughter was not a match.


A Skeptical Audience
In response another line of questioning, Etchecolatz told the judge that whatever happened to pregnant women was the decision of the clandestine detention centers that held them, and was not his fault. The police, he said, were only responsible for the health and food of the prisoners, nothing else. The police’s orders, he reiterated, were to “mantener higiene, cuidar salud física, no interrogar” (“to maintain hygiene, to take care of physical health, not to interrogate”). The military was the one who had the responsibility for the prisoners and the detention centers.

However, Etchecolatz said he did remember one instance of a pregnant prisoner. When this girl gave birth, he said, the staff at the detention center bought her presents and a card. Groans of disbelief rose from the audience when they heard this. He couldn’t remember the girl’s name or last name. But she was from La Plata, the neighborhood the trial was in, he said, and the police, because it was a humanitarian issue, took charge of letting her family know.
By this point, the audience had seen thousands such trials, and knew to expect these sort of responses from the accused. In 1986 it was prohibited to try anyone for human rights abuses committed during the Proceso and since then many criminals were pardoned. About a decade ago, then-president Néstor Kirchner re-opened the trials. The lying and lack of repentance was nothing new to the audience of this trial, and the bitterness was clear. When Etchecolatz announced that “caminaba en lo más sucio de la sociedad y no me contaminaba” (I walked in the filthiest part of society, and it didn’t contaminate me”) members of the audience laughed aloud in scorn. 


Remember with Care
When the judge returned to asking Etchecolatz about the events on the day at Casa 30, Etchecolatz tried to say he didn’t remember much of anything. Occasionally, in the trial Etchecolatz  would get flustered responding to questions, would answer in a stream of “Sísísísísí” or “Nononono.” After prodding, he admitted he did remember how he arrived (in a car), but not who drove it, and admitted that he did now remember that others were in the car with him. He did not remember, however, who ordered the attack on the “casa de los terroristas” (“the terrorists’ house”).  As Etchecolatz was the director of the police, it is a fair bet that he himself ordered the attack.


Here the lawyers took over.
One asked:
¿Si no estaba parte de investigaciones, si solo cuidaba salud física, porque estaba a la Casa 30?”
If you weren’t there as part of the investigations, if you only took care of physical health, why were you at Casa 30?

I don’t believe Etchecolatz answered this one. 


The white building or this flat roof here is likely where Etchecolatz was during the attack.

House of Holes
After the trial, we went to see Casa 30, a small gray cement building. A whole window and most of the wall was blasted out, presumably by the bazooka, and deep holes marked around the door and wall. Glancing through a bullet hole on one wall we could see inside the house, a wall similarly pockmarked by bullets. The roof Etchecolatz must have stood on could not have been more than 8 feet from the door of Casa 30.
 


 The house itself has been preserved as it was since the attack


Epilogue: The Curtain Doesn’t Fall
The face and name Jorge Julio López is something I've seen graffitied all across Buenos Aires, on walls, on tiles in La Plaza de Mayo, and especially in La Plata. Eventually, I learned why.

in La Plata

at Plaza de Mayo



This man had been kidnapped and personally tortured by Etchecolatz from 1976-1979. During the first trial of Etchecolatz, López was a major witness, and his testimony against Etchecolatz was invaluable: In addition to recounting to his own horrific experience, López had seen Etchecolatz execute five people.
Though the Proceso trials offer a form of resolution and validation, testifying is nonetheless extremely painful for the victims. In a documentary on this trial, called “Un Claro Día de Justicia” (“A Clear Day of Justice”), I saw López struggling to get the words out. He remembered a woman named Patricia who was imprisoned with him; he was the only one of them with a chance of leaving the detention center alive, she told him, and she begged López to find her parents or her brothers and tell them to “dame un beso a mis hijas” (“give a kiss to my daughters for me”). Recounting, reliving, this moment, López’s voice almost failed him, it was with painful effort that he managed to speak. The older man’s hands trembled, like a hummingbird flapping, so much that he couldn’t pick up a glass of water; someone had to hold it out for him to sip. 

López during the trial. (Photo credit to Haydeé Dessal y Elena Luz González Bazán at http://www.villacrespomibarrio.com.ar/2011/septiembre/ciudad/derechos%20humanos/lopez%20en%20fotos.htm)

           During the days of this trial, López, a white haired, 77 year old man with children, vanished. In the midst of recounting his horrifying disappearance, disappearances ceased to be a memory and became the state of his life once again. (The trials continued without López, and Etchecolatz was sentenced to life in prison.) This was five years ago. López still has not been found.
            It was 23 years after the end of the Proceso, supposedly in a better government and better world, and yet, with López’s abduction, the disappearances were re-opened. Since then, there have been accusations the police’s fruitlessness in the case is deliberate. The satire magazine, Revista Barcelona, publishes a weekly piece ridiculing the police’s attempts to find López. Clara Anahí and Jorge Julio López have still not been found, but until they, or their final resting places are, the trials will still go on, and the protests will continue in the Plaza de Mayo.

           
            
                 Calendar titled "How many days without López?"; Displayed in ESMA, previous site of a navy clandestine detention center.


Links:
López’s testimony (in Spanish): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayyh_169cF8